What are the characteristics of an authentic Kanjivaram handloom saree?
Korvai
Kanjivarams are known for their bright contrast border and Pallu; Imagine a Mustard color body with a blue border or Parrot green with Pink.This is possible because the body and borders are woven separately and then joined by a 3 shuttle technique called “Korvai” which requires two weavers. Korvai is a Tamil word formed by combining “Korthu + Vangarthu” meaning a Joint. The word Korvai is also used in the context of Classical arts like Carnatic music or Bharatanatyam. They are short dance components or swara patterns called Korvais which can then be put together in different sequences.
Similarly the technique for joining Pallu is called “Petni”. If Korvai is not used then weft yarn will be the same as body color so you can have a slightly different shade; true contrast borders are possible only with Korvai.
Pure gold Zari
zari, which is the fine gold thread that embellishes the saree is an integral part of Kanjivaram. It is crafted by wrapping silk thread with molten silver that has been flattened into a wire, and then electroplating it with gold. This adds to the brilliant lustre of the motifs on the border and Pallu; and sometimes buttas all over the body. Zari is sourced from Surat.
Traditional designs
Designs inspired by temple architecture, animals, plants, mythical beings etc are executed in gold zari. The buttas are woven using a laborious and highly skilled “Adai” technique that is entirely by hand. This results in uniqueness of each butta and some of the complex designs which have overlapping motifs or intricate detailing is possible only with Adai..
Weight
Kanjivaram sarees weigh 1 to 2lbs each. It is woven with 3-ply silk threads called “Murukku Pattu”. This along with the gold zari lends to its weight. It also adds durability.
Shine
Kanjivaram sarees are known for their brilliant shine which comes from Mulberry silk threads sourced from Karnataka.
Colors
Initially they were extracted from leaves, barks and seeds. Traditional colors of Kanjivaram were just a handful. Arakku red, Green, Pasi pachai, Pakku brown, Yellow, and Indigo blue. In 1868, synthetic dyes were introduced which widened the range of colors. Many new colors inspired by the local fruits, flowers, spices, Religion and of course the famous double shades became widely popular.
Even about 120 years ago, 400-500 looms in 12 villages did Korvai work.Today the Korvai technique is sadly dying. Even the handful of Master Weavers who still weave in Korvai technique only have 1 loom dedicated to it so production is painstakingly slow. A few innovations in recent years include; modified Korvai adjustment to the loom that allows the weaver to do the inter-locking himself. Jacquard spindle with a catch-card for weaving of motifs which has replaced Adai. Tie and dye method for Pallu instead of Petni. Pastel colors/ blacks alongside traditional ones; Pure gold zari replaced by silver, German silver, copper, synthetic and zero zari. Murukku pattu is replaced with soft silks or lightweight silks. Traditional motifs are being replaced with geometric motifs and prints/ sequins.
Some of my favorite innovations in Kanjivaram that I think work with this Weave while preserving their charm include the silver zari/ zero zari version and Blacks as I like their simplicity.