History
Gadwal Handloom sarees are from the town of Gadwal (not to be confused with Garhwal of Uttarakhand) in Telengana . Its geographic position between Krishna and Tungabadra river, is noted for the harmonious coexistence here of cultures Andhra/ Telangana and Karnataka. It draws from both Telugu and Kannada cultures; cotton weaving traditions of the Deccan and the silk and zari techniques patronized by Maratha and Mughal courts.
A commonly cited local legend speaks of the saree being a gift from the goddess herself - either Bhadrakali or Renuka Devi - who is said to have taught the first weaver how to interlock cotton and silk to create a textile that was both earthly and celestial. This myth reflects a belief in which handloom weaving is viewed not just as craft, but as shastra - a sacred knowledge system passed from the gods to humans.
During the grand Brahmotsavam festival at the famous Tirupati temple in Andhra Pradesh, the idol of the goddess is adorned with an exquisite Gadwal saree. The skilled weavers of Gadwal hold the rare honor of creating the “Sesha Vastram” - also known as the “Eruvada Jodi Panchalu” - for Lord Venkateswara during the annual Brahmotsavam. This special cloth, traditionally woven in shades of yellow, maroon, and red, is crafted on a unique loom under a strict 41-day ritual, where the weavers chant the name of Govinda continuously. Once completed, the sacred vastrams are handed over to the chief priest of the temple, who offers a special arathi and formally presents them to the deity, marking the beginning of the Brahmotsavam festivities. Gadwal’s contribution to this sacred tradition continues to be a cherished tradition.
In another recurring tale, the origins of the interlocking Kupadam weave are attributed to a weaver-saint who dreamt of a cloth light enough to pass through a ring, yet radiant enough to be worthy of temple offering. His vision was realized in the form of the Gadwal saree, whose airy cotton body and richly ornamented silk pallu fulfilled both conditions. Variations of this narrative appear in both Padmasali community lore and the regional ballads sung during handloom festivals.
Most Gadwal Saris are woven with interlocked – weft borders of contrasting colors. It is believed that the brocading abilities of many of the weavers in Gadwal originate from Varanasi, where a local Maharaja sent their ancestors to learn brocade weaving skills. The designs, however, do not show any Banaras style influences but are strongly and authentically south-east Indian in structure and aesthetic quality. They are often regarded as ‘Puja ‘ Sarees by local women who wear them for religious and festive occasions.
The earliest historical records linking Gadwal to textile production date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, during which the Gadwal Samsthanam, a local feudal estate, acted as a patron of the arts. The rulers, who maintained courtly alliances with both the Nizams and the Marathas, encouraged the development of unique textiles that reflected their hybrid cultural ethos. Gadwal sarees were often gifted to court dancers, temple priests, and visiting dignitaries, functioning not just as clothing but as diplomatic and ceremonial currency.
Characteristics
Gadwal Handloom sarees are known for their well- crafted Kuttu borders which are traditionally woven in the interlocked-weft technique (called Kuppadam or Tippadamu locally) and often with Kotakomma (also called Kumbam) in the borders. This allows for borders and Pallus to be woven separately and then attached during weaving resulting in beautiful contrast color combinations.
Along with the Kuttu borders, here are some characteristics of the Gadwal Handloom
- Kuttu borders (woven separately and then attached)
- Beautiful zari motifs
- Light weight
- Fine ( can be folded into the size of a matchbox or can pass through a ring)
- Typically Cotton body and silk border & Pallus; Pure silk sarees are also woven
- 80 counts cotton and 20/22 D filature border & Pallu
- Easy to drape and maintain
- Durability of colors
- Typical motifs used - mango, peacock, rudraksh, hansa ( swan), Lion, double headed eagle
- Traditional colors - earth tones of tan/ browns, grays, off-whites and exciting contrast border combinations like White/ Black, Off-white/ Maroon, Beige/ Pink, Black/ Pink, Off-white/ Bright green, Light blue/ Dark royal blue etc…
Woven by generations of exemplary craftsmen, the Gadwal saree was granted the status of geographical indication (GI) tag in 1999.
Process
Each weaver works from home with all his / her family helping in different steps of the process. It requires approximately 4-8 days (depending on the variety of saree) of continuous efforts of two persons for weaving a saree.
The core materials used for manufacturing the saree are Silk / Cotton and Zari. The silk border is either Tussar or mulberry and the body is often of unbleached cotton. It may also have colored cotton or silk checks.
Pure silk versions of Gadwal sarees are also available.
Innovations
The recent development in Gadwal Saris has brought some interesting and new designs. Presenting the Sico Saree (50% cotton and 50 % silk) which is of recent origin and is very popular! This saree has a self contrast border (sometimes with an additional color contrast in selvedge) and Pallu with zari
